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Technical Information | |
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Upgarding to a larger Z32 air
flow meter! |
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| Clutch Lever Adjustment ( picture below ) The procedure is best done by laying on your back with your head placed just below the clutch pedal (so yeah, a good idea to shake the crud off those floor mats prior to this drill). With light in hand, look towards top of clutch pedal. There is a clevis with a rod (pointing towards front of car) and jamb nut attached. Loosen the jamb nut (14mm). See below for which way to rotate adjusting rod. Note that rod rotation direction is when viewed from the DRIVERS SEAT perspective. BEHAVIOR: Engages too close to floor, may grind when putting into 1st or reverse. REMEDY: rotate rod clockwise (rod is unscrewed from clevis making it longer). BEHAVIOR: Engages too far away from floor, slipping may also be present. REMEDY: rotate rod counter clockwise (rod is screwed into clevis making it shorter). Working room is quite tight and a pair of long needle nose pliers work nicely for rotating the rod. A little rotation goes a long way so don't rotate more than several revolutions between test drives. If things are getting worse you are probably rotating the rod in the wrong direction. It is sometimes difficult to see if the rod is even turning since you can rotate it only about 1/10 revolution at a time (due to aforementioned tight working quarters). Take a thick tip felt pen and place a few marks on the shaft to help monitor rotation progress. And don't forget to tighten the jamb nut when through. |
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| Vaccum Reading at Idle Normal IDLE vaccum at 850RPM for a good condition engine is about - 8.5 psi to - 10.5 psi or - 18 in Hg to - 22 in Hg or - 45 cm Hg to - 55 cm Hg. |
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| Engine Compression Important to check with upgrading the power , expecially turbo. After all you won't want to spend a couple of K on the performance parts and have the engine splitting oil all over, do you ? |
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| ECU lay out I have uploaded this tiny picture of the ECU layout. I find these basic signals important and most of the aftermarket electronic demands to be connect to these points. |
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| Upgrading to R34 Fuel Pump. Again , the procedure for this swap it pretty straight forward if you are good with your hands, if not, a good mechanic would definately help to avoid fuel spilling over the place and starting a fire. 1)The first thing to do is to remove the pressure in the fuel line. This is easily done by starting the car and then removing the fuel pump fuse whilst the car is running. The fuse is located in the black fuse box located in the bottom-left hand area of the engine bay. The top of the box has a diagram of what fuses are where under the cover. Remove the cover and use the diagram to locate the fuse which will be a 10 AMP fuse (mine was a see-through red colour). Pull it out carefully with some plyers and the engine will stall after a few seconds with the fuel pump not working. Turn off the ignition - You have now released the fuel pressure! To be safe, you must disconnect the battery. Remove either the positive (red), or the negative (black) terminals or even both, and make sure there is no further contact. A spark could really mess up your day so double check! 2) You will be working in the boot area of the car next to the spare wheel. So, clear everything out of the way. Remove the parcel shelf, fold down the rear seats and roll the carpet right back out of the way. You will see the same picture as above. Hoover out any crap anywhere near and around this area - if any crap drops into the tank, it ain't very professional is it? :) 3) Remove the two bolts on the right hand cover plate with a phillips screwdriver, take your time and don't shear them off as they have probably never been removed before. Also, remove any tape securing the plate down.Once you have removed the plate, you will see this switch underneath - it feeds power from the battery to the fuel pump so it can operate. Disconnect the switch by pulling the two ends apart. It's a plastic switch so don't hit it with a hammer or anything.... 4) Now remove the second plate held down by four 10mm blots. Be careful with these bolts also, as they are likely to be very stiff (particularly the top two), free them up gently and use a bit of penetrating oil. Once they are all removed, take off the cover plate which reveals the top of the fuel tank. Hoover out as much crap as possible as it is likely to be messy under there and you don't want it dropping into the tank. Under the second plate you will see this. A circular plate held down by six 8mm bolts. This is the top of the 'hangar' or 'fuel pump housing'. Carefully remove the bolts. You don't need to remove the lead form the switch to the top of the housing so just leave it on. Be sure to disconnect the two fuel lines as arrowed but don't lose sight of them when removing the hangar. Lift up the pump hangar plate and you will see the housing underneath holding the pump. About half-way through the removal, the float recording your fuel level will get stuck and the housing will not come out any further. If you turn the housing on an angle and gently help the float out, it can all be removed - do it very carefully so as not to damage anything. 5)Right, with the new pump in place on the hangar you need to secure it. Get two large zip ties and use them to fasten the pump to the hangar - make sure they are tight, and clip off any excess zip tie. Now place your ring contacts on to the fuel pump contacts. The red wire goes to the larger contact on the pump (also red), the black wire goes to the smaller terminal on the pump (blue). Fix the contacts down with the appropriate sized hex nuts, make sure they are nice and tight - you don't want them coming loose. Make sure the fuse is in and switch on the ignition. Do not start your car first. Check the fuel pressure it you ahve a gauge attached to your fuel line. Make sure there's no leakage. After you make absolutely that there's no leakage. Start the engine. Enjoy your new fuel pump ! |
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| Half raise 200sx S13
headlights (sleepy eyes look)
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After you turn OFF and ON your head light again at night, the light will reset again to normal position! You might need to do this everyday! But hey, it's free!! |
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| APEXI ITC wiring and adjustments
One of the things that you will find along with most performance products is the manual. For electronics items, one of the items that are rarely missed is the English version of the manual when the products are shipped to other English speaking countries. However, APEXI seems to have missed out on the English version of the manual for almost all its APEXI ITC products. I have been pretty luckily to have a copy of the manual so am sharing it here for people who have a piece of this great garget but do not have the English version of the details. | |
  
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